Preloaded subwoofers make the life of a car audio junkie so much easier. We want big bass. And we’re American so we want it as easily as possible. Preloaded enclosures are ready to go, toss one in your trunk, the back seat, wherever. You don’t gotta spend two weeks waiting for your buddy to make you box in his free time or over paying an installer. Kicker updated their Dual CompR Subwoofer loaded enclosures this year and they are seriously impressive.
Available in Single or Dual 10″ and 12″ enclosures
Ported Enclosure Box for extended output
Designed with drastically rounded corners and internal bracing for strength
KICKER MDF box covered with dense gray carpeting and embroidered logo
Constructed with durable MDF
Dual 2 Ohm voice-coils
Injection molded Polypropolene cone woofer
Santoprene rubber surround for excellent control of woofer cone
Kickers 2nd from the best subwoofer enclosures!
You can get a Dual CompR enclosure with 10″ subwoofers or 12″ subwoofers, or a single enclosure with one 12″ subwoofer. They’re extremely durable, take up a good amount of space and weigh about the same as a fat baby and a dead dog. (Measurement graphic) These beefy boxes are built for extreme bass with internal bracing, thick MDF construction and custom embroidery.
Kicker Subwoofers – Best in BASS
But a box is only as good as the subwoofers inside. CompR Subwoofers get their boast worthy power handling from their stacked magnet structure. Kicker’s signature double stitching bonds their improved Solokon, which adds rigidity and accurate response, to the ribbed Santrpoene surround, which provides flexibility to eliminate distortion.
These car subwoofers have a final impedance of 2ohm. The dual 10″ has a max power of 1,600 watts, the dual 12″ has a max power of 2,000 watts and the single 12″ has a max power of 1,000 watts.
To provide improved thermal management Kicker designed the structure of the CompR with their UniPlate back plate and Ultra ridged cast aluminum basket.
Complete Car Audio System Installation – $300 in equipment.
Audio Samples of Factory System vs Kenwood System
2016 Toyota Corolla
Chapters of the Installation:
Finding out what size speakers you need: 0:51
Benefit of Speakers, Amps and Subs: 1:12
First Steps of Install: 2:04
Run Power Wire Through Firewall: 3:15
Removing Rear Seats: 5:10
Removing Rear Deck: 6:30
Making Custom Rear Speaker Adapter Plates: 7:15
Creating Wiring Harness for Rear Speakers: 9:15
Mounting Rear Speakers/Dynmatting: 10:50
Making Rear Speaker Connections: 12:45
Mounting the Amplifier: 13:30
Amplifier and Subwoofer Connections: 15:50
Wiring the Fuse: 17:01
Removing Front Doors and Speakers: 18:01
Making Custom Front Speaker Adapter Plates: 19:30
Assessing Tweeters: 20:35
Dynamatting Front Doors: 21:35
Mouting Speakers and Adapter Plates: 24:15
Creating Custom Wiring Harness for Tweeters: 26:38
Audio Samples of Factory System vs Kenwood System: 28:45
Clipping at its root is distortion. It occurs when an amplifier is overdriven and attempts to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its capability. Like the guy at the gym trying to squat 10 plates. It is important in car audio to avoid because we want to have all of our components in the signal path optimized to prevent the onset of distortion. Clipping has disastrous consequences for our speakers.
Why is this important?
Amplifier clipping comes into play into two places in our audio system, our speaker level amplifier and our pre-amp level amplifier. This is hugely important when we set the gains of our amplifier. We want to match the maximum output of the pre-amp level to the maximum speaker output of the amplifier. This ensures the best audio quality from both the radio and the amplifier.
What does clipping look like?
Audio signal are a series of waves, these waves have perfectly formed tops and bottoms. Clipping causes the wave to no longer have a perfectly formed top or bottom. To show you what this looks like we will use a 30 Hertz test tone recorded at 0db and connect an oscilloscope to the speaker output of our radio. To see clipping we need to increase the volume to exceed the output capabilities of the amplifier by raising the volume.
Here we have a nice clean top with a descending arc, and now you will the top of the wave get cut and that is amplifier clipping or better known as distortion. The byproduct of distortion is heat and that has lovely effects on our speaker voicecoils.
Are some radios better than others?
We’ll take it a step further, depending on the quality of the radio or amplifier you may have clipping at different frequencies, a 1 kHz test tone may play fine, but a 30 Hz test tone will clip at the same volume level. Add in the fact that some radios have EQ’s and that creates additional issues.
To demonstrate this we’ll show a couple of examples utilizing the AVH-4200NEX double DIN radio. Make sure to check out our review here.
We’ll start with setting the EQ to powerful and take some measurements.
We begin our test with the internal pre-amplifier and test using a 30 Hz, 60 Hz, and a 100 Hz test tone to see if our radio can maintain the same volume setting on all three test tones. We have gone ahead and hooked up our oscilloscope to the front RCA output leads and begin playing our 30 Hz test tone.
Based on that test you can see that the internal pre-amplifier is pretty clean until the last 10% of the volume range. Mind you we took this test with only a single RCA connected with a very short lead.
Now we’ll show you the how changing the EQ curve has a direct effect on pre-amplifier clipping. We set the EQ to flat and begin all of our measurements.
What does clipping sound like?
Here in our examples you can actually hear when the amplifier clips, it make an almost rattling or slapping sound.
How do I use this to set gain?
To set gain we set the radio to volume 38, this is the maximum clean output of the radio. Volume 38 will also be the volume level that we would never exceed when playing music. Next we connect the RCA’s to the amplifier and turn the amp gain all the way down. We connect the oscilloscope to the speaker outputs of the amp and increase the gain until our wave begins to clip. Our gain is perfectly set!
In this video we used an inexpensive $89 oscilloscope the DSO Nano, if you are into car audio and electronics this is a must have. Click in the description below for more info and where to get one.
That’s it on what is clipping and how to set your gains. Be sure to check out all the latest car audio and car video gear at http://www.qualitymobilevideo.com If you enjoyed this video click that like button and leave any comments below and don’t forget to subscribe to out youtube channel. We have included a series of 0db test tones so that you can test and set your equipment.
Learn the basics of an aftermarket car stereo installation. We take you through the steps of wiring a Clarion NX404 Double DIN navigation system to a Metra wire harness. First we walk you through the steps of preparing the Metra wire harness and the connections to the Clarion radio harness. In the second step, we take you through the process of mounting the radio to the Metra Dash kit and preparing to install the radio in the vehicle.
If you have any additional questions please feel free to ask us below.
DIN stands for Duetch Industri Normen, this was a technical standardized opening that all of the vehicle manufacturers adopted. DIN is a colloquial term for an opening size of 180mm x 100mm. This is easily converted to inches by dividing by 25.4, the result is inches.
What is the difference is radio sizes?
What is double and single DIN?
It’s common to hear these question when you are replacing the radio in your vehicle. Luckily the vehicle manufacturers have made this easy. We explain all of the common radio sizes and nomenclature.
Single DIN is one unit of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 2″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.
Double DIN is two units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 4″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth. Many radio manufacturers build double DIN radios but you can also stack two single DIN chassis together to create a double DIN.
Din and half
DIN and a half is 1.5 units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 3″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.
Half DIN is .5 units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 1″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.
Smaller than DIN
Smaller than DIN usually adopts the height but is narrower in width than 7 inches. This measurement is commonly used with DVD players
Based on your make and model of your vehicle it can either support a double din unit, a single din unit or both.
To start this radio has an output of 85 Watts, has a built in FM/AM Tuner and EQ, and plays those old Matchbox 20 CD’s laying around in your car.
The LCD display is 13.3″, extremely responsive to your touch, and has a resolution of 800×480 pixels. It’s basically like having an iPad on your dashboard.
To attach the monitor, start by pressing the OPEN button on the left of the radio’s panel. The internal motor will push the monitor plate out and up.
Slide the monitor in then snap it back into the plate’s matching connections. The display will turn on immediately. The monitor is even easier to detach, just press the release button on the back and remove it from the monitor plate.
The main menu of the LCD reveals access to all of the different functions of the radio from Bluetooth, to DVD to the USB input.
Connecting your mobile device to the bluetooth is simple. Just enter the passcode 8888 and you’re all set. Bluetooth allows you to stream music from your library or apps like SPOTIFY, and it also gives you full control over your phone allowing you to make and answer calls.
The radio allows you to set Steering Wheel Control presets for convenient control while keeping your hands on the wheel.
Its ability to play DVD’s makes this radio family and passenger friendly. Insert your disc and get to watching.
Believe it or not, the BVS13.3B also accepts SD Cards and can play everything from MP3, MP4, WMA to AVI. To access it release the front panel from the housing and insert a card into the slot. Once the front is attached again you can play your media.
Onto the connections on the back. There are two inputs, for audio/video external sources and rear and subwoofer pre-amp outputs. Attached is a radio antenna jack. And finally the wiring harness input.
Included in the box are three wiring harnesses, the audio and video and rear and subwoofer output cables, and a wireless remote control.
The DEH-X2800UI features only red button illumination while the DEH-X3800UI allows the user to select a Custom Color Illumination with over 200,000 options to match your factory dashboard illumination or to change it up and really set the mode in our vehicle. The DEH-X3800UI can be set to random color mix so that radio continuously changes color and can be combined with mixtrax for DJ inspired effects!
Steering wheel control input
Unlike the DEH-X2800UI the DEH-X3800UI has an external Steering Wheel Control Input. This allows you to use the Metra ASWC Steering wheel interface so that you can retain your original steering wheel control buttons so you don’t have to take your hands off the wheel to control the radio.
RCA audio outputs
The DEH-X2800UI has 1 set of RCA Pre-Amp audio outputs while the DEH-X3800UI has 2 sets of RCA Pre-Amp audio outputs. These pre-amp outputs are 2 volt outputs on both radios however the DEH-X3800UI allows for added flexibility when adding a 4 channel or multiple amplifiers.
Let’s face it, installing an aftermarket car stereo can appear to be a daunting task. With some basic skills nearly anyone can successfully install and aftermarket radio in their vehicle. Learning these basics of car stereo installation without a teacher can take years. We show you the tips of the trade and the basics of an aftermarket car stereo installation.
The Metra wiring harness is specifically designed to plug in to your vehicle’s factory wire harness without having to cut the factory wiring. These harnesses have color coded wires to make connection much easier for the novice. All aftermarket radios have a standard wiring color that matches up with the Metra Wire harness. Be sure to check out our video on the difference in wiring harnesses here.
Step #2 Car Stereo Dash Kit
In the second step, we take you through the process of mounting the aftermarket radio to the Metra Dash kit and preparing to install the radio in the vehicle. This part of the stereo installation is often the easiest part as it is aa matter of mounting.
If you have any additional questions please feel free to ask us below.
Maybe its the Navigation, maybe its the ability to play DVD’s in your vehicle while on the road or it might just be the ability to play songs directly from your smartphone wirelessly, whatever the reason might be for you to want to upgrade your stock radio, there are only a few steps that you’ll need to take to make sure your installation goes as smoothly as possible.
Step-by-Step installation instructions
We installed a feature-packed Pioneer AVH-X3500BHS(Now Replaced With the AVH-X3600BHS) on a 09 Tundra. Like most aftermarket radios the X3500 is compatible with the stock steering wheel controls but we had to add an interface to make it happen. For the most part this was a fairly standard head unit installation but we also needed to add a special harness to bypass the JBL components on some Toyota vehicles.
We chose the X3500 (starting at $349.99) for Pioneers reputation for quality and reliability as well as what seems like its endless entertainment options. The X3500 has the ability to play Sirius XM satellite radio, HD radio, play DVD’s/MP3’s and has industry leading Parrot Bluetooth technology to stream music from your phone wirelessly including Pandora playlists and answer phone calls on the go.
Apart from having to add a couple of adapters, it did not take much to transform this technology outdated stock radio, which even has a cassette player(not that there is anything wrong with that) with top of the line technology.
We walk you through the process below to help you get a better feel on how easy it can be to upgrade.
Step 1: Removing the factory head unit can sometimes be a bit of a pain but the first step is to remove the plastic housing surrounding the unit. In this 09 Tundra the plastic housing includes pretty much the entire dash in a circular form.
Once the housing is out, the head unit itself should be held in place by a couple of screws, simply remove those screws and un-clip the wiring harness as seen in white (above) and you have the blank canvas for your new navigation.
Step 2: While upgrading to a new navigation receiver our customer wanted to make sure he did not lose his ability to use the factory steering wheel navigation controls. We were able to keep the controls by using the Metra ASWC-1, a steering wheel control interface for select aftermarket radios that can be bought for around $50.00.
This 09 Tundra also needed an adapter that would make it compatible the stock JBL equipment already in the vehicle. With Metra TYT001 we are able to use the stock amplifier and stock speakers with the aftermarket navigation receiver for about $75.00. This double-din unit did not need a dash kit as it fits practically snug without additional housing.
Step 3: Once all of the wiring interfaces and adapters are in place, installing the new navigation receiver is about the same process as removing the stock radio to begin with. In this case, we attached the JBL adapter to the vehicles stock harness and connected the steering wheel adapter.
Once those two connections have been made, we hold the unit in place using the same screw holes we used to remove the stock unit. The picture on the left should show exactly how it should look once mounted. Once that is mounted all that is left is to place back the plastic housing that hides all of the electrical connections of the dash and the installation is complete.
Metra provides two types of harnesses for different installations. Occasionally you may need to replace the factory harness and in other situations you want to replace the factory radio, we show you the differences between Metra wiring harnesses.
Replacement vehicle Harness – 71-
Metra produces two types of wiring harnesses, one is designed to replace the factory wire harness in the vehicle if it becomes damaged. These wiring harnesses have a part prefix of 71-****.
Aftermarket Radio Installation harness – 70-
The more commonly used Metra wiring harness are those that are designed so that you can connect an aftermarket car stereo to the factory wiring without cutting. These harnesses have a part prefix of 70-****.
If you have any additional questions please feel free to ask us below.