How to set amplifier gains – What is clipping? – Smoke!!

What is amplifier clipping?

Clipping at its root is distortion. It occurs when an amplifier is overdriven and attempts to deliver an output voltage or current beyond its capability. Like the guy at the gym trying to squat 10 plates. It is important in car audio to avoid because we want to have all of our components in the signal path optimized to prevent the onset of distortion. Clipping has disastrous consequences for our speakers.

clipping audio signal
Here is what a clipping and non clipping audio signal look like on an oscilloscope

Why is this important?

Amplifier clipping comes into play into two places in our audio system, our speaker level amplifier and our pre-amp level amplifier. This is hugely important when we set the gains of our amplifier. We want to match the maximum output of the pre-amp level to the maximum speaker output of the amplifier. This ensures the best audio quality from both the radio and the amplifier.

Clipping is important to understand because it has a direct impact on how we set our gains

What does clipping look like?

Audio signal are a series of waves, these waves have perfectly formed tops and bottoms. Clipping causes the wave to no longer have a perfectly formed top or bottom. To show you what this looks like we will use a 30 Hertz test tone recorded at 0db and connect an oscilloscope to the speaker output of our radio. To see clipping we need to increase the volume to exceed the output capabilities of the amplifier by raising the volume.

distortion blows speakers
Distortion does nothing other than destroy car audio equipment

Here we have a nice clean top with a descending arc, and now you will the top of the wave get cut and that is amplifier clipping or better known as distortion. The byproduct of distortion is heat and that has lovely effects on our speaker voicecoils.

testing audio signals
Perfectly formed sine wave uniform top and descending arc, the way an audio signal should look like

Are some radios better than others?

We’ll take it a step further, depending on the quality of the radio or amplifier you may have clipping at different frequencies, a 1 kHz test tone may play fine, but a 30 Hz test tone will clip at the same volume level. Add in the fact that some radios have EQ’s and that creates additional issues.

pioneer avh-4200nex double din radio
Here we tested the AVH-4200NEX both the speaker outputs and the line level rca outputs

To demonstrate this we’ll show a couple of examples utilizing the AVH-4200NEX double DIN radio. Make sure to check out our review here.

Review on the Pioneer AVH-4200NEX Double DIN Radio

We’ll start with setting the EQ to powerful and take some measurements.

AVH-4200NEX Equalizer setting
Here we set the EQ to powerful before we begin out testing of the internal amplifier

We begin our test with the internal pre-amplifier and test using a 30 Hz, 60 Hz, and a 100 Hz test tone to see if our radio can maintain the same volume setting on all three test tones. We have gone ahead and hooked up our oscilloscope to the front RCA output leads and begin playing our 30 Hz test tone.


No clipping

Slight Clipping


30 Hz




60 Hz




100 Hz




Based on that test you can see that the internal pre-amplifier is pretty clean until the last 10% of the volume range. Mind you we took this test with only a single RCA connected with a very short lead.

Now we’ll show you the how changing the EQ curve has a direct effect on pre-amplifier clipping. We set the EQ to flat and begin all of our measurements.

AVH-4200NEX Flat Equalizer setting
Here we set the EQ to flat before we begin out testing of the internal amplifier



No Clipping

Slight Clipping


30 Hz




60 Hz




100 Hz




What does clipping sound like?

Here in our examples you can actually hear when the amplifier clips, it make an almost rattling or slapping sound.

How do I use this to set gain?

To set gain we set the radio to volume 38, this is the maximum clean output of the radio. Volume 38 will also be the volume level that we would never exceed when playing music. Next we connect the RCA’s to the amplifier and turn the amp gain all the way down. We connect the oscilloscope to the speaker outputs of the amp and increase the gain until our wave begins to clip.  Our gain is perfectly set!

setting the amplifier gain
Here we set the gain without clipping the output signal.

In this video we used an inexpensive $89 oscilloscope the DSO Nano, if you are into car audio and electronics this is a must have. Click in the description below for more info and where to get one.

That’s it on what is clipping and how to set your gains. Be sure to check out all the latest car audio and car video gear at If you enjoyed this video click that like button and leave any comments below and don’t forget to subscribe to out youtube channel. We have included a series of 0db test tones so that you can test and set your equipment.

Single Din vs Double Din – What’s the difference?

single din and double din size difference
What is the difference in radio size? We show you the size differences in single vs. double din.

What is DIN?

DIN stands for Duetch Industri Normen, this was a technical standardized opening that all of the vehicle manufacturers adopted. DIN is a colloquial term for an opening size of 180mm x 100mm. This is easily converted to inches by dividing by 25.4, the result is inches.

What is the difference is radio sizes?

What is double and single DIN?

It’s common to hear these question when you are replacing the radio in your vehicle. Luckily the vehicle manufacturers have made this easy. We explain all of the common radio sizes and nomenclature.

Single DIN

Single DIN is one unit of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 2″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.

Double DIN

Double DIN is two units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 4″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth. Many radio manufacturers build double DIN radios but you can also stack two single DIN chassis together to create a double DIN.

Din and half

DIN and a half is 1.5 units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 3″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.

Half DIN

Half DIN is .5 units of the standardized size, this means that the radio opening is 1″ in height and 7″ in width with varying depth.

Smaller than DIN

Smaller than DIN usually adopts the height but is narrower in width than 7 inches. This measurement is commonly used with DVD players

Based on your make and model of your vehicle it can either support a double din unit, a single din unit or both.

Car Amplifier Installation – Learn how

Why do I need a car amplifier

It is rather enjoyable to listen to music while driving your vehicle. But bad sounding tunes isn’t fun, instead of using your stock stereo and amplifier it’s better that you install a new amplifier to power up your speakers or subwoofer. Aftermarket speakers and factory speaker benefit greatly from additional power. The question is – Where do you start once you purchased your car amplifier?

Amplifier Installation Know How

First, you need to find a suitable location for your newly bought amplifier. We suggest you place the amplifier underneath the seat or in a cargo area. Dissapation of heat is improtant and should be considered when mounting an amplifier.

For the amplifier’s wiring, you should consider buying the proper gauge power cable, a shielded RCA signal cable, 3 feet of ground cable that has the same thickness as the power cable, a ‘remote on’ wire, and a 12-16 gauge speaker wire for the main speakers. 

Next, you’ll need to get your tools ready for the job at hand. This would include things like:

Before you get started you will need to determine if you are going to use a line output converter or if you are making a direct connection to the aftermarket car stereo. Once you have determined where you are going to get your audio signal you may need instructions for taking of your vehicle’s dashboard apart. In actual fact, you should only remove the head unit of your vehicle’s dashboard as it is needed for hooking the the remote turn on and RCA cables.

With that out of the way, it is time for installing your amplifier. For your safety please ensure that nothing is connected to an electric current before you start.

car amplifier installation
Learn how to install a car amplifier.

Steps for installing the amplifier:

  1. You will start by disconnecting your vehicle’s negative cable from the battery.
  2. Then take the positive (red) power cable and attach it to the battery terminal on the positive side of your vehicle’s battery. Within 18 inches of the main battery connection you will install a fuse holder. The fuse is designed to protect the wire from melting and causing a fire if a short occurs.
  3. Now its simply a case of running the power cable through the vehicle’s firewall and to the amplifier. Care should be taken as to where run the wire. Do not run the power cables too close to speaker signal or wires.
  4. From here, you need make use of a metal screw or stud in order to connect the negative or ground cable. It’s important ensure the distance is not more than 3 feet as this could cause issues.
  5. Next, you will unscrew the bolt, clean the surface using sandpaper or a wire brush. Use a ring terminal to attach the ground wire, then fasten the screw or stud again. We recommend using a factory ground point and not a screw.
  6. Now you simply need to run the RCA cables down the opposite side of the vehicle to prevent noise. You’ll connect the RCA cables to a line output converter or to an aftermarket car stereo and to the amplifier.
  7. The next connection is the remote turn-on This connection is used to turn on the amplifier. This connection is easily made to an aftermarket stereo. If using a factory radio you will need to locate a circuit that has 12 volts when the key is in accessory position.
    The wire is typically run with the power wire to the radio location.
  8. From there you will need to run your speaker wires. We recommend that you crimp-on female spade connectors for every connection as this prevent stray strands of wire and shorts.

Before you close everything up

Before putting everything back together we recommend that you you go through your checklist to ensure that everything is in working order.

There you have it. Your amplifier is installed and ready to use.

Rockford Fosgate Punch P1, P2, and P3 Subwoofers – Video review

Last week we showed you a complete Pioneer audio system for under $400. This week we are going to talk all about the BASS.

Let’s get started

Rockford Fosgate is known by all bass heads for their relentless hard hitting bass. Rockford has one of the largest line-ups of subwoofers with three different lines. Within those lines there are 3 performance levels. Prime, Punch, and Power are all performance subwoofers and push the envelope with their output.

Rockford Fosgate Prime subwoofers

For those getting started in car audio or for those looking for a little fuller sound we have the Prime series. These entry level woofers are available in the R1 and R2 series in both 10 inch and 12 inch models. R1’s are the least expensive way to get some low-end notes in your ride.

The R2’s are available in shallow and regular mount. They are a step up from the R1’s with their better power handling and more flexible wiring options thanks to their dual voice coil design.

Punch P1 subwoofers

For those looking for some serious bass, Rockford has the Punch series. Punch subwoofers are available in P1, P2, and P3 performance lines. The P1 is the introduction to the Punch line-up. The P1’s are available in 8, 10, 12, and 15 inch. The P1 introduces a linear spider with embedded 16 gauge tinsel leads and are only available in single voice coil. The Kevlar fiber paper cone is extremely rigid and delivers the bass you expect from a Punch series woofer.

Punch P2 subwoofers

The P2 takes all of the P1 features and pushes the envelope even further. The P2 brings added flexibility with its dual voice coil design. The P2 also has a considerably larger motor structure…. The magnet size is increased nearly 40% and has a 2-1/2 inch voice-coil compared the P1’s 2 inch voice coil. The integrated spider and voice-coil venting is a standard feature of all Punch series subwoofers.

Punch P3 subwoofers

The P3 improves on the P2 and pushes subwoofer technology to the limit. The P3’s are available in 10, 12, and 15 models. Rockford has pushed the XMAX limit to nearly 16 millimeters! To get there, Rockford has yet again increased the magnet size by nearly 35% over the P2. The larger VAST surround allows for the increased excursion and adds up to 25% more cone area. The P2 adds an Anodized aluminum cone and dust cap for even more rigidity.

The P3 line-up adds shallow mount subwoofers in 8, 10, and 12 inch models. The shallow mount P3’s incorporate all of the P3 technology in a depth limited package. The M-roll surround allows for nearly 9 millimeters of XMAX and the dual linear spider keeps everything in alignment. The P3 shallow open up new possibilities in otherwise limited applications.

The P3 is the best performing Punch series subwoofer.

All Rockford Punch series woofers include trim rings and are compatible with optional Rockford grills. The trim rings provide a distinct look for a nice finished product.

Punch pre-loaded subwoofers

For those of us not interested in building a box or having one made.. Rockford has the entire Punch and Prime series subwoofers in pre-loaded enclosures. The Punch pre-loaded enclosures are available in P1, P2, and P3 performance levels and utilize the same drivers in 10 and 12 inch.. They are available in Single and dual driver configurations.

Be sure to check out our video on the Rockford fosgate prime subwoofers in pre-loaded enclosures below for more information on them.

Get your Rockford Fosgate subwoofers today at Quality Mobile Video with a 1 year warranty and 30 day returns. Thanks for watching and leave your comments below.

Subwoofer Impedance and amplifier output

Car Subwoofer Packages

Car Amplifiers

Pioneer TS-SWX2502 Shallow Car Subwoofer system

Ohms law

Pioneer Subwoofer voice-coil DC resistance test

In electrical circuits there are two concepts. These concepts have a mathematical relationship between them.

I’ll use plumbing terms as it is easier to visualize these concepts using a pipe. The first is the voltage, in plumbing terms, voltage is the size of the pipe. The other is current or flow, in plumbing terms this is the pressure. These two concepts define the work or wattage.

Ohms law: V= I x R

V = Voltage
I = Current; measured in Milli-amps or Amps
R = Resistance; measured in Ohms

Using this concept and amplifier that outputs 400 watts at 4 Ohms will output 800 watts at 2 Ohms.

Speakers or Sub-woofers

Pioneer subwoofer voice coil cut away

Sub-woofers and speakers have a voice-coil; it is the heart or the device that performs the work. A voice-coil is a tightly wound copper wire that when electricity is applied, generates a magnetic field that either attracts or repels a closely mounted magnet.

When electricity is is moved through this copper wire it does so with resistance (known as Impedance), this resistance is measured in Ohms. The lower a speakers impedance, the easier it is drive.

Amplifier output relationship to Impedance

Amplifiers have a sweet spot in their relationship to output and impedance. Problems arise when a sub-woofer has very low impedance or resistance. The output of an amplifier is measured in wattage or work, work has a byproduct called heat. Excessive heat causes and amplifier to shut down to protect itself from destruction. Heat is the largest factor in the life span of electronics.

Consideration must be taken to factor what an amplifier output is capable of and the load you are introducing. Manufacturers clearly state what their amplifiers are capable of in output and in what situations or configurations. Car audio amplifiers are capable of driving a 4 ohm load. 4 ohms is what most car speakers and sub-woofers are rated at. Most car amplifiers are also capable of driving 2 ohm loads on a single channel.

Amplifier speaker connections

The most common error is when an amplifier is bridged, bridged operation utilizes two of the amplifiers channels and sums them together to provide more output. When an amplifier is bridged, its sees half of the load, or in the case of a 2 ohm woofer, 1 ohm. Most amplifiers are not capable of driving this low resistance as it would cause the amplifier to run extremely hot.

Single voice-coil and wiring options

Example: Paralleled connection

Subwoofer parallel connection

Paralleled configuration means the positive side of one voice-coil and the positive side of the other voice-coil to the positive side of the amplifier. The same connections would be made to the negative side, negative side of one voice-coil and the negative side of the other voice-coil to the negative side of the amplifier.

In this diagram we show you what is potentially a damaging load for most amplifiers. When paralleling dual 2 ohm voice-coils, this creates a load at the amplifier of only 1 ohm. 1 ohm loads for most amplifiers are catastrophic, please check with your amplifier manufacturer before connecting a sub-woofer to the output terminals

Example: Series output

Subwoofer series connection

Series configuration means that the sub-woofers are wire one after the other. The plus of woofer 1 to the minus of woofer 2, the remaining plus and minus are connected to the amplifier.

In this diagram we show you a load that is safe for most amplifiers. When connecting two 2 ohm voice coils in series you create a 4 ohm load. In a bridged operation this is safe for most amplifiers.

Multiple voice-coils and wiring options

In the examples above we were only talking about a single woofer and single voice coil. When we add multiple sub-woofers we can create different loads or resistance on the the amplifier. The sole reason for driving different loads is to optimize the amplifier to the amount of speakers.

Sub-woofers with dual voice coils have two connections and allow for different wiring options. This is especially useful in system design and allow for more flexibility. A dual 2 ohm woofer can be wired as a 4 ohm in series or 1 ohm in parallel. You can see this allows us a ton of flexibility when doing multi-speaker systems.

When we want massive bass the output of two woofers helps create the system we desire. When using multiple sub-woofers we must consider what the amplifier is capable of and the impedance implications that the multiple woofers present.

When speakers are in series, you add the speaker impedances together for the total impedance. One 4 ohm woofer wired in series to another 4 ohm woofer sums to a total impedance of 8 ohms. 

When speakers are wired in parallel, provided they are of equal impedance, you divide the impedance by the amount of woofers. One 4 ohm woofer wired in parallel to another 4 ohm woofer has a total impedance of 2 ohms. Another example is when four 4 ohm woofers are wired in parallel the total impedance is 1 ohm.

3 Dual Voice Coil Sub-woofer Setup Example – 2.6 ohm load

3 dual voice coil subwoofer connection diagram

Example 1: If we wanted three dual voice coil woofers in our system, and each woofer were dual 4 ohm coils we can wire this so that each woofer has its coils wired in series or 8 ohms each, and each woofer wired in parallel to the others so that the amplifier would see 2.6 ohms.

4 Dual Voice Coil Sub-woofer Setup Example – 1ohm load

4 dual voice coil subwoofer connection diagram - 1ohm load

Example 2: In this example we will take four dual 2 ohm woofers. We will wire each woofers coils in series making it a 4 ohm woofer, we will then connect them to the other woofers in parallel, the total impedance is 1 ohm for this system.

4 Dual Voice Coil Sub-woofer Setup Example – 4ohm load

4 dual voice coil subwoofer connection diagram - 4ohm load

Example 3: In this example we will take four dual 2 ohm woofers. We will wire each woofers coils in parallel so each woofer is 1 ohm. We will the wire each woofer in series to the other, the total impedance is 4 ohms.

This allows us to properly match the amplifier with the amount of woofers we want for the desired output. Consideration must be taken to ensure that the amplifier has the output capability to drive these multi-woofer systems. If each woofer is capable of 200 watts and we have three woofers we want to ensure that out amplifier has at least 600 watts of output. It is vitally important that we figure RMS ratings in these estimations as these are real world outputs and ratings. Multi-woofer systems that are underpowered will suffer from poor sound quality and possible damage as you exceed the output capabilities of the amplifier. Exceeding output capability causes the amplifier to clip and has the possibility to damage your woofers. The safer route is to have a slightly overpowered amplifier as it allows for more capability or headroom. This headroom prevents distortion when peaks of music occur and provide excellent sound quality as there is power on reserve for these impactful moments.

4 Dual Voice Coil Sub-woofer Setup Example – 4ohm load

Normal voice coil in good condition

In this photo we have the voice-coil as it should look when it is in new condition. Here you can see the tightly wound copper coil and the copper varnish is not discolored.

Burnt Voice-coil with broken former

Burnt voice coil

This photo clearly demonstrated a damaged voice-coil former and damaged coil. The coil varnish is severely discolored which demonstrates excessive heat caused by distortion. Excessive heat causes the voice coil to separate thereby destroying the woofer.

Burnt Voice-coil with broken former

Broken voice coil

This photo clearly demonstrates the severely discolored coil varnish. It’s easy to see the charred remains and the unwinding.

The bottom line is we want a sub-woofer and it’s amplifier to have very similar ratings. We want the amplifier output capability to match the woofer input capability at its impedance rating. By doing so we ensure that we have a well powered system and one that was designed with excellent efficiency.

Backup Camera Installation Gallery – Chrysler 300

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 1: Here we have removed the panel and this is where we will run all of the wiring to the camera.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 2: Here is a better look at how things look when the panels are removed.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 3: Here is a close up of underneath the dash, here we connect the power to the system. We get power underneath the dash connecting to the main vehicle power.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 4: Close up of the factory wiring.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 5: Here we are drilling a small hole to run the vide cable and power cable to the License plate camera

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 6: Here is the camera installed. This is a full frame camera for a great look.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 7: Here we have removed some of the pillar trim to run the cables to the rear-view mirror monitor.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 8: Here we have clamped rearview mirror monitor to the factory mirror (We used a clamp on mirror monitor)

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 9: Better view of the relative size of the monitor.

Removing the panels from the vehicle so that we can run the wires

Pic 10: Here we have removed the rear seat and we run all the cabling through the thresholds

Backup camera system – Buying guide

Back up camera system – Buying Guide

Purchasing the perfect backup camera system can often be a bit of a challenge for the first time buyer given the amount of options available. It is important to remember that these various options should be seen as a good thing, as they provide a fully customizable system that can fit your needs best, if you know what to look for.

Finding the perfect backup camera system can be made just a little easier if you break it down into three specific categories:

Monitor Type: The monitor type determines exactly how the backup camera picture will be displayed. The most popular backup monitor types are universal monitors, rear view mirror monitors, sun visor monitors and OEM factory in dash monitors

Camera Type: The backup camera type determines how the backup camera will mount to the rear of your vehicle. The most popular camera types are flush mount cameras, license plate cameras and surface mount cameras. All our cameras come with 18-25 feet of video cable to connect to the monitor.

Key Camera Features: The camera features are really where you can get the most bang for your buck and the category more than likely to dictate pricing. The key features to look for in a backup camera system are viewing angle, CCD camera lens, reverse/ non reverse, infrared lighting, park assist lines and wireless backup camera systems.

Our Top 5 back up camera systems

Safesight SC9003 7 inch reverse back up camera system Safesight SC9004 7 inch commercial grade back up camera system Safesight SC0301-SC3102 Safesight SC0302-SC3102 3.5 inch reverse back up camera system Safesight SC4101-SC0301 Rearview mirror back up camera system

Back up camera systems – LCD monitor types

Universal car LCD monitors

Universal Monitor: A universal monitor is the most common type of backup monitor as it easily mounts on top of the dash of any vehicle. These monitors are most commonly sized from a 3.5 inch through 7 inch screen as anything smaller is hard to see and anything bigger becomes distracting and bulky.

These monitors come with a mount that can be bolted down to the top of the dash but can easily be mounted to a windshield as well with a universal windshield mount.

Rearview mirror monitors

Rear View Mirror Monitor: A rear view mirror monitor will either clip on to your existing rear view mirror or replace it all together. An entry level monitor will virtually have no reflective properties and can not be used as a standard rear view mirror when not in use.

A higher end monitor on the other hand will have a designated 3.5 inch or 4.3 inch screen for when the backup camera is in use while still maintaining a reflective surface that can be used as a standard mirror when not in use.

A replacement rear view mirror is often recommended for higher end vehicles as it provides a clean finish with a well designed OEM look and feel without the need for an additional monitor that will sit in plain sight.

Sun visor monitors

Sun Visor Monitor: If you do not wish to have a stand alone monitor sitting on top of the dash as it hinders a clean look and replacing a rear view mirror will mean forgoing standard equipment such as Onstar or Sync, another viable option is going with sun visor monitors.

These sun visor monitors are universal and fit virtually any vehicle. They typically come in three generic colors; black, gray and tan to seamlessly match your interior.

Factory Navigation Radio's and OEM GPS navigation radio

OEM Factory in Dash Monitor: If your vehicle already has an in dash LCD screen as part of its original equipment it may also be used as a backup camera monitor but not without the help of a navigation interface.

Most of the backup cameras we carry connect using a standard RCA cable, but the problem with most factory LCD screens is they lack the standard RCA input needed to connect that camera. A navigation interface simply allows the factory LCD screen to be equipped with a standard RCA input.

Back up camera system – Camera Types

Flush mount back up cameras

Flush Mount Camera: A flush mount backup camera provides a discrete and clean look that is simply hard to match by other backup camera types. The only downside to a flush mount camera is that a hole big enough to house the camera must be drilled directly to the body of the vehicle.

License back up cameras

License Plate Camera: A license plate type camera is the easiest camera to install as it requires minimal alteration to the vehicles body. It easily mounts the the top or bottom of the license plate and can be mounted on both the front or back of the vehicle.

Surface mount back up cameras

Surface Mount Camera: Usually regarded as the most popular of all backup camera types and revered for their versatility. These systems can be mounted nearly anywhere on many types of vehicles and typically come with a mounting bracket that tilts up and down for the perfect view.


(*All our cameras come with 18-25 feet of video cable to connect to the monitor)

Key Back up camera Features

  • Viewing Angle: Measured in degrees, with 180 degrees being a panoramic view of your rear, viewing angle determines how much of your rear you can actually view. The higher the number the wider your view.
  • CCD Camera Sensor: A high end camera imaging device that is great at picking up color, light, and contrasts. CCD image sensors typically produce a higher resolution image with excellent light sensitivity for a great picture at night.
  • CMOS Camera Sensor: CMOS image sensors are typically much smaller in size often no larger than your finger tip, however due to their smaller size are limited in their ability to capture light. CMOS cameras typically have Infrared LED’s to illuminate the camera area at night so it is visible on screen.
  • Reverse image/ non reverse image: Reverse image is useful for any rear facing camera as it flips the image on the monitor to make the picture the proper orientation when viewed on screen and in the front of a vehicle. What is on the left side in the rear will show on the left side of the monitor and vise versa. A non reverse image camera is useful for a forward facing camera as it keeps the image in its standard form.
  • Infrared Lighting: These invisible lights illuminate the camera area with infrared light and produce a black and white picture at night or whenever the camera is in a low light situation.
  • Park Assist Lines: These lines appear on the side of the monitor and typically help the driver determine depth with green, yellow and red designated proximity zones.

Installing a Backup Camera on a Factory In Dash Monitor

One of the most frequent questions we get asked is if it is possible to install a backup camera on a vehicle that already has a factory in dash video monitor. Long story short, the answer more than likely is yes.

Most cameras work of a standard RCA video connection which plenty of aftermarket in dash video monitors have, the only problem is that most factory navigation radio’s do not come equipped with a standard RCA input.

That’s where a video/navigation interface comes in. A video/navigation interface is simply a standard RCA input that can be added to many vehicles and allows the factory in dash video monitor to be used as a backup camera monitor.

There are a few companies dedicated to making these video/navigation interfaces for several makes and models among the leaders are Pac-Audio and NavTool Inc.